Ends and backdrop temporarily positioned in place.

Despite its size, the layout is going to weigh an absolute ton when its complete! I really should have made the baseboard lighter, but there we go! Perhaps I'll keep the backdrop detachable rather than permanently fixing it in place. Mind you, I don't intend to attach it until at least all the under-baseboard work is complete.

Mobile-friendly version

I've just activated the mobile-friendly version of this site for readers viewing it on a mobile device. It doesn't appear to be customisable as yet (or if it is I've not figured out how to yet) but it does make the site much easier to use on a small screen.

Christmas woodworking

While I pluck up the courage to install the electrics and turnout mechanisms I decided that a less daunting but equally necessary job was fitting the backdrop and fascia.

I prefer the all-in-one, wraparound style of backdrop with no visible joins or corners, but not wanting to sacrifice any of the already limited space I opted for the more conventional approach of separate, flat back and sides instead. The joins will be hidden using bathroom sealant before painting and the corners disguised with trees (the back of the layout will pretty much be lined with trees anyway). The backrop will simply be painted to represent a clear blue sky.

A fascia board will be fitted above the front of the layout which will eventually carry the layout's name (whatever that may end up being!) and hide/support the lighting - a 3' long lightweight 30W fluorescent strip light. This will be detachable to allow easier access while working on the layout.

The backdrop is made from standard 3mm hardboard, pinned and glued to a framework of lightweight stripwood batons, and will be screwed and glued to the edges of the baseboard frame.

I'm in the middle of preparing the various sections ready for fitting to the layout, so will post some photos when I've made a bit more progress.

Electronics was never a strong point...

I figured I should roughly draw out the track sections and what will be wired to what on the underside of the baseboard. Trouble is, even with a simple track plan like this I'm struggling to figure it out - but I'll get there eventually!

I've cut some copper-clad circuit board into strips, which I'll glue to the underside of the baseboard where the dropper wires protrude, so they can be soldered to it. This should increase strength as well as providing a connector point for the wiring.

(Oh, and don't worry - I glued some pieces of cork onto the corners of the baseboard surface so I could turn it over without damaging the trackwork!)

My plan to introduce some variation into the track levels has fallen at the first hurdle! Although I managed to cut through the baseboard relatively easily using a jig-saw, it is still fixed absolutely rock solid to the frame underneath.

I tried using a cutting disc in the mini-drill to separate the baseboard from the frame members, but the disc broke almost immediately, sending shrapnel flying everywhere, so in the interests of safety I quickly gave up on that idea!

Saws and chisels are out of the question as there's limited space to work in anyway, plus there are dropper wires sticking through the underside of the baseboard everywhere so I need to avoid knocking them and breaking the soldered rail connections!

So unless anyone has any bright ideas, I think I'm going to have to give up on the idea and live with a flat baseboard. (I may still be able to have a gradient on the rear running line by just lifting the track itself and adding a sub-base on to of the baseboard surface - at last this would avoid the same problems, although of course out could being its own set of problems!

Oh the joy of backward planning!!

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5